Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)
This reptile is one of the most popular reptile pet in the United States today. As juveniles, they are a very appealing lime to forest green color. At maximum size, an adult iguana can reach 5' in length although half of this is the tail. As they mature, the males will develop a larger head crest, jowls, subtympanic scale (circular scale below the ear), and larger tail base than the females. The femoral pores (round scales on the underside of the thighs) are larger and more numerous on the males. The males have a very impressive dewlap or "beard" that flares out when stressed or challenged. Large spike-like scales run the length of the back of the iguana. It should be noted these scales, like the toes, will not grow back if broken off. Additionally, several geographic color races exist with differing amounts of black band patterns. One of the most desirable variants even has a bluish head.
Captive Breeding Status:
Virtually all specimens are imported into the United States from iguana farms in Central and South America. Green iguanas are being bred in captivity, but the housing demands for keeping adults make this suitable only for dedicated individuals. Also, the low cost of farmed imports provide little incentive for captive breeding, this is done mostly for the experience.
Native Range/Habitat:
Green Iguanas are found from Mexico to the jungles of central South America. They are rainforest animals that are commonly found high up in the safety of the trees. Like most reptiles, they spend a good deal of time basking.
Diet/Feeding:
This species has a very strict dietary requirement. No other area of iguana care has more misinformation than eating habits. These reptiles are entirely herbivorous (plant-eating) from birth and throughout their life. In the wild, they do not require any animal protein at any age. Some captive juveniles will eat insects but this should be very limited. They can have a quicker growth rate if fed large amounts of animal protein but at the expense of reducing their life span and risking on-going health problems.
An iguanas diet should be 80% calcium rich vegetables such as: collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, mulberry leaves, fresh peas, parsley, squash, snow peas, grated carrots, grated pumpkin, grated zucchini, and/or thawed frozen mixed vegetables. The leafy vegetables should take priority. Do not feed iceberg lettuce since it is mostly water and has no nutritional value. Also avoid feeding spinach since it contains oxalic acid (it binds up calcium making it unavailable for the iguana). Also avoid or feed sparingly: broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, kale, and cauliflower. These contain iodine binders that can cause thyroid problems.
The other 20% of their diet should be fruit and flowers. Feed strawberries, mangos, papayas, kiwis, melons, apples (no seeds), prickly pear cactus flowers, hibiscus, and dandelion flowers. With dandelions or any food collected outdoors, be careful to rinse thoroughly to remove pesticide or fertilizer residues.
To help with your iguana's nutritional requirements, Tetra offers ReptoMin SoftGel; a moist, gelatin diet based on apples and soy protein. For best results, feed ReptoMin SoftGel on a daily basis and provide some fresh fruits or vegetables 2 - 3 times a week for treat and variety. It's also important to give iguanas a calcium supplement, about 3 times per week for juveniles and once to twice a week for adults. Tetra offers ReptoCal and ReptoLife Plus for added nutritional supplements.
Housing:
Housing a new juvenile iguana is fairly easy. What many new reptile owners fail to see is just how fast an iguana reaches it 5' length. It will only take 6 - 12 months for a juvenile iguana to outgrow a 55-gallon aquarium. It will then be necessary to get a larger enclosure. The cost of setting up a proper enclosure will typically cost 10 times (or more) the amount of purchasing the iguana. Adult iguanas should be housed in an enclosure that is at least 4' X 4' X 6'. They prefer to spend their time high in the branches, so a tall cage is a must. There are no "stock-size" aquariums large enough for an adult iguana. It will be necessary to custom order or build your cage in most instances. Some advanced retail stores may sell large wire or wood cages. Housing more than one iguana together, especially males and females can result in confrontations between the two animals. It is best to house them separately.
The substrate can be newspapers or carpet-type material. Neither is very pleasing to the eye but it is easy to clean. Being a rainforest animal, they do not need to conserve water. As a result, they give off a fair amount of liquid waste. You can provide loam or moss to increase the humidity. Iguana's need about 75% humidity, misting the enclosure once or twice a day will achieve this. Do not use wood shavings, corncob bedding, playground sand, or crushed walnut shells. Some wood shavings in particular can give of fumes or dust that can harm the iguana's respiratory system. The other substrates are not digestible and may block the intestines if ingested.
Provide plenty of climbing material. Make sure the collected branches and rocks are sterilized. You should avoid using live plants; the iguana will eat or damage them. They prefer the temperature to be between 85-90ºF at the cool end and 100ºF at the hot spot. The nighttime temperature should be 77ºF. It will also be necessary to provide a full-spectrum light with UV-B. Different options exist for lighting and heating and your local pet shop or herp society can advise best choices. Traditional methods are use of a radiant heat device (ceramic heat emitter or incandescent bulb) and specialized, fluorescent bulbs. With heat devices it is best if they are placed such that direct contact with the animal is avoided to prevent burns.
General Comments:
Iguanas are not the best choice for the novice reptile keeper. Their enormous size is only one problem they can present. Another factor is temperament. They typically tame well but can be unpredictable at times. Iguanas can claw, bite, and tail whip with painful results. An adult iguana can inflict serious harm. They should be kept away from small children and domestic pets. Because many if not most iguana pet purchases are "impulse" or incompletely researched as to long-term care requirements, countless new iguana owners don't know what they are getting into. Many owners are unable to or simply don't want to care for their pet when it grows too large. As a result, reptile adoption agencies are overrun with homeless iguanas. Due to the popularity of these reptiles, the retail price for them has dropped very low. This is unfortunate because many people are buying them without any knowledge of their care.
It is not a good idea to let the iguana roam freely around the house. They can damage furniture, knock over lamps, tear up electrical wiring, and destroy carpeting. Iguanas are also very good at cramming themselves into hard to reach places. It can be very stressful for them and the owner trying to remove them from these places.
The Green Iguana is not all bad though. It can be a very good pet if cared for responsibly and properly. The only way to keep an iguana successfully is through education and lots of dedication.